Food Critics
June 15th 2007 02:39
That High Court Case which awarded damages against a newspaper that printed an unfavourable article about a restaurant is very interesting. As a currently unemployed food writer (amongst other things) it sends shivers down my spine. Shades of Leo Schofield!
The whole hospitality writing business is deeply corrupt - many are "on the turps or on the take" as the saying goes. (I'll leave you to work out which category I'm in - my friends very kindly pointed out the resemblace between me and Homer Simpson). The problem is not so much criticism as a lack of intelligence and the perception on the part of many that the job is just one long perk with no responsibilities.
There was a noted, although not publicly, instance of a journalist - not even a usual food writer at that - writing a glowing review of his wife's restaurant without declaring any interest. Not such an unusual thing.
I found the important thing was always to recall that you were writing for the industry and for the smart punters. The industry could be told in code what was wrong with a restaurant - and it helps them pull their socks up. The smart punters don't need it spelled out -you can also use a code with them. They can read between the lines.
The other thing is that absence from a column is very telling. I recall one restaurateur asking when I was going to come and review his restaurant. "When you serve some good food!" I replied. Silence is golden, and doesn't attract law suits.
It is also as well to realise that you are dealing with peoples' livelihoods. Not just the proprietor but all of those they employ. It's not in the purview of a food critic to cost people their jobs.
The whole hospitality writing business is deeply corrupt - many are "on the turps or on the take" as the saying goes. (I'll leave you to work out which category I'm in - my friends very kindly pointed out the resemblace between me and Homer Simpson). The problem is not so much criticism as a lack of intelligence and the perception on the part of many that the job is just one long perk with no responsibilities.
There was a noted, although not publicly, instance of a journalist - not even a usual food writer at that - writing a glowing review of his wife's restaurant without declaring any interest. Not such an unusual thing.
I found the important thing was always to recall that you were writing for the industry and for the smart punters. The industry could be told in code what was wrong with a restaurant - and it helps them pull their socks up. The smart punters don't need it spelled out -you can also use a code with them. They can read between the lines.
The other thing is that absence from a column is very telling. I recall one restaurateur asking when I was going to come and review his restaurant. "When you serve some good food!" I replied. Silence is golden, and doesn't attract law suits.
It is also as well to realise that you are dealing with peoples' livelihoods. Not just the proprietor but all of those they employ. It's not in the purview of a food critic to cost people their jobs.
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